10 Things You Must Fix Before Selling Your Home
If you're planning to list your home for sale, now is the perfect time to fix odds and ends.
Over the last 30 years, our inspectors have witnessed just about everything, whether representing buyers with our Home Inspection or sellers with our Pre-Listing Inspection.
We've learned that there are specific issues that must be fixed before listing because buyers not only will not like the problems, the house will be a heck of a lot harder to sell if the issues aren't fixed.
Check out our "insider's guide" below for 10 things you must fix before selling your home.
(While you're perusing the list, try to identify the theme...see the last paragraph for the answer!)
01. Mystery switches.
Every switch should operate something, anything. A switch should not include warning labels (e.g., pull this cord at your own risk)! Make sure all fixtures have working light bulbs. It's important not to leave any questions about the integrity of the electrical system.
02. Water stains.
Water stains are big fat red flags. Please - don't try to hide water issues, the truth will always out. If you have any concern about water intrusion anywhere, you must resolve the issue and repair damage before listing. Our inspectors are Certified Real Estate Thermographers who use infrared cameras on every inspection, including our Pre-Listing Inspection. Ask us to help you to identify active water penetration issues.
03. Quirky thrones.
Over the millennia of human innovation, toilets were a pretty trick invention, possibly as nifty as the internal combustion engine. OK, not really, but toilets are pretty cool when you think about them. Our inspectors have seen lots of toilet weirdness, the most prevalent of which includes toilets that never stop running, or toilets that have loose bases, or toilets that require some special knowledge to operate. The beauty of toilets, other than the fact that they make stinky stuff disappear, is that they're generally easy to fix before listing.
04. Fire in the hole!
Buyers love fireplaces. They're cozy. They're for cuddling. They're romantic. And, as a side benefit, they help to reduce energy costs. But fireplaces can be a source of concern to buyers if there is any uncertainty about condition, especially for buyers who have never owned a house with a fireplace. Therefore, prior to listing, make sure all fireplaces are clean and functional.
05. Slow train drain.
If your sink or shower drains as slowly as a long-haul train takes to pass by, sure, the issue may be caused by a hairball. But there may be a more serious issue and because buyers are afraid of what they can't see, they'll imagine the worst possible scenario. Buy a drain snake clog remover at Amazon, Lowe's or Home Depot to clean out the clogs and muck.
06. Musty basements.
What's the first thing a buyer thinks about a musty basement? Musty basement (smell) = Wet basement (thought) = Buyer running away (sound). Follow your nose, assess your basement. Does it smell musty? If yes, why? Do you need a dehumidifier? Do walls need to be sealed? Is a professional required to address water penetration issues? Our inspectors are Certified Real Estate Thermographers who use infrared cameras on every inspection, including our Pre-Listing Inspection; we can help you to identify active water penetration issues.
07. Wiggles, shimmies, and shakes.
You may know how to grab a handrail so it doesn't wiggle or shake. But buyer's won't know and their inspectors sure as heck will certainly notice; the inspection report will scream "Safety Issue." Pretend that you're the buyer - walk through the house and note items that need securing. Better yet, ask a friend to walk through the house for a second opinion. Fix all wiggles before listing.
08. Oh, oh, oh it's magic, you know-oh-oh.
If there's something in your home that requires a "magic touch" to operate, chances are it's something that should be on your list of repairs. Buyers who walk through your house expect every item to work the way it's supposed to - without banging, jerking, shoving, or secret combinations of lifting and turning. Fix your stuck windows and doors, you know what we're talking about!
09. Trip hazards.
Loose carpet inside, uneven walk surfaces outside. Say "trip hazard" five times fast while your neighbor walks up the path for the first time with a baby in her arms. Every trip hazard is an accident waiting to happen. When you list your home, you'll have lots of foot traffic - fix the trip hazards!
10. Pressure.
No, we're not talking about the travails of daily life, we're talking about water pressure. Is there low pressure at the shower? Does the shower lose pressure if anyone uses another water source in the house? This may seem like a minor nuisance to you, but your buyers and their inspectors won't think so. Start by checking for a clogged shower head or a shower shut-off valve that has been inadvertently knocked partially closed. If that doesn't work, retain a plumber to evaluate and fix the system.
- - -
So, did you figure out the theme?
Buyers don't like surprises.
We encourage you to work with your Realtor to identify issues before listing. We'd welcome an opportunity to deliver our Pre-Listing Inspection - we will help you to identify everything a buyer inspector is going to find anyway.
One closing thought from Hunter S. Thompson: "A person who procrastinates in his choosing will inevitably have his/her choice made for him/her by circumstance.”
Landscaping Do's and Don'ts
Got the urge to plant and landscape?
Be very careful...what you don't know could kill you.
OK, that's a little dramatic. But what you don't know actually could damage your property.
The law of unintended consequences, which applies to life in general, applies to landscaping in particular. In other words, planting over here could mean trouble over there.
We've delivered over 1 million home inspections over the last 30+ years - here are some simple landscaping do's and don'ts that we've compiled from our inspection data.
Do: Plan ahead.
Planting is like life - planning for anything, including your funeral, is always the preferable approach. If your landscaping delusions, umm, dreams include planting new trees or shrubs near to your house, planning ahead is especially important.
Plants, shrubs, and trees are lovely additions to your property. Except golden euonymus, which is just awful. And really hard to spell.
But whatever your taste (which, by definition, would be bad if you actually like golden euonymus), every plant and tree is different and has different needs in order to thrive and, most importantly, every plant has unique requirements for space, including room to grow.
Don't: Plant shrubs too close to the house.
You can't just plant shrubs or trees anywhere.
And you certainly can't plant shrubs too close to the structure, not just because plants will come into contact with and damage the siding, but because shrubs retain moisture.
- Moisture deteriorates exterior cladding - The single biggest issue with regards to shrubbery growing near or on the structure is moisture, which will accelerate deterioration of practically any type of exterior cladding.
- Moisture attracts termites - Moisture is the #1 "conducive condition" for termite infestations. Plants are organic “cellulose-based” organisms. Guess what termites eat? Cellulose-based organisms. While termites are mostly interested in dead wood (building materials), termites can also attack roots of live shrubs and trees. Therefore, whenever you plant anything close to the structure, you must consider the possibility that you may be planting termite food right next to your house. Termites are migratory - if they attack trees or shrubs near your house, guess where they're headed next?
Baby shrubs grow into monster shrubs. What claims to be a dwarf shrub or mini crepe myrtle today could be a shade tree in the blink of an eye.
You've seen them - houses covered with what once were baby shrubs. You need to account for adult sizes when choosing a location on your property. And don't believe the plastic tags. If a vendor claims that a shrub will be 24" tall, expect it to grow to be twice that size.
Like all of us, you will inevitably miscalculate and shrubs will grow too close to the house. If that occurs, trim the shrubs regularly - there should be at least 1' of space between shrubs and the exterior of the structure.
Do: Check your slope.
Well, not your slope. Your property's slope. “Grading” describes surface elevation changes when compared to other areas around or near the house. Proper grading is when the grade or slope of the elevation slopes downward and away from the home at a rate of 1″ per foot for the first 6′ and then a continued slope for at least 10′ from the foundation.
You shouldn't have to perform complicated algebra to check slope (although we're sure you remember y=mx+b, your favorite equation in your short-lived math career). You also shouldn't have to hire a surveyor to accurately measure your grading. Use your eyeballs - if the elevation looks flat or worse, slopes back towards the house, you have work to do before planting new anythings.
Grading should also ensure that water flows away from the house; if the grading near the house is OK but there's a flood in the yard every time it rains, even the best near-home grading won't prevent water penetration.
Don't: Plant trees too close to the house.
As bad as it is to plant shrubs too close to the house, you're risking disaster if you plant trees to close to the house.
- Structural damage - Tree roots can cause structural damage to your home depending on the proximity and type of tree. Ficus trees, for example, have very aggressive root systems and even a small ficus tree planted close to a structure could cause foundation damage. Oaks and maples have massive root systems but actually may cause less damage because their roots generally go around obstructions rather than through them.
- Plumbing damage - Tree roots can also sometimes cause plumbing problems. Aggressive root systems bore through older, brittle plumbing components like cast iron and clay that are under the structure; large roots can actually crush plumbing components. Our Sewer Scope Inspection often reveals infiltration of root systems blocking drainage in municipal systems as well as septic systems, repairs of which can be very costly.
- Roofing damage - Tree limbs which stretch over your house are accidents waiting to happen. But even if that old walnut tree stays upright for 100 years, contact with branches and debris from the leaves and small sticks will gradually and prematurely wear away your roof covering.
- Heaving damage - Tree roots can damage walkways and driveways. Root systems that heave walkways and driveways not only cause concrete and asphalt damage, but also create a “trip hazard” due to uneven surfaces.
Give trees 15' to 20' space from the structure.
Talk to your local nursery professional if you want to learn more about the various root systems. Or check out The Right Tree in the Right Place at the Arbor Day Foundation.
Do: Ensure proper drainage.
The best way to avoid structural deterioration from water is to keep the dwelling dry. Landscaping is an important component to help achieve a dry house. Planting according to area specific types and species will help to ensure that excess water will be soaked up by plants, shrubs, trees, and lawn. Properties with poorly maintained landscaping are more susceptible to water penetration issues.
Installing barriers (retaining walls, landscaping timbers, vertical plastic edging, stones) can exacerbate the problem because barriers don’t just hold flowers and mulch – barriers block drainage. If you must cling to your landscape timbers and edging, make sure downspouts extend beyond the barriers. If your home is in cold climes, don’t direct downspouts onto the driveway and/or sidewalks; snow and freezing rain can make the walking areas unsafe and help to accelerate cracks in the driveway and/or sidewalk.
Is A Crack In My Home A Structural Problem?
There are many variations of cracks, but there are three primary cracks that are commonly found--vertical cracks, horizontal cracks and diagonal crack. The following overview of the basic types of cracks should provide you with the information you need to help determine if the cracking you see is structurally related.
Pictured from top left: Horizontal crack, Vertical crack, Diagonal cracks, and Stair-step cracks.
Vertical Cracks
Vertical cracking is not structurally related or deficient unless there is lateral movement, displacement, bowing, or if the crack is uneven from top to bottom. If the plane of the wall is the same on both sides of the crack, then it is a contraction crack, and not a structural issue.
Below is a picture of a hairline/very thin vertical crack. It is most likely initial settlement – not a something to worry about, but an example of something to keep an eye on.
Since everything expands and contracts, it is common in commercial work to provide control joints in areas where expansion and contraction is expected. However, control joints are not typically installed in residential construction. Ridged materials, such as poured-in-place concrete, tend to crack from expansion and contraction much easier than more flexible materials.
Horizontal Cracks
Horizontal cracking in block construction is usually structurally related because the bond between the block is broken. However, this does not mean that the wall will collapse. The amount of movement and the cause of movement are important issues to consider. Frost, backfilling, or a significant unbalanced load may cause cracking.
Here are some examples of horizontal cracking. In the above pictures we see horizontal cracking with stabilizers, horizontal cracking without stabilizers and horizontal cracking going into a corner.
A frost line crack is not likely to have serious repercussions unless conditions, such as negative grading, are not corrected. Cracking due to poor backfilling practices, or heavy equipment close to the walls, is usually a one-time occurrence. Movement caused by an excessive unbalanced load presents the most serious situation. A significant unbalanced load may be destined for collapse.
Diagonal Cracks
Diagonal cracking is almost always structurally related. Diagonal cracking is defined as a crack that tears through the material, not a step crack that follows the mortar joints. If you are looking at a foundation wall with diagonal cracking, you should be concerned, however, determining the source is fairly easy.
To determine the source or cause of a diagonal crack, draw an imaginary line perpendicular to the center of the crack, downward towards the ground. There you should find the source of the cracking.
Being able to determine the cause or source of a crack can serve as a guide to the action or solution needed. If a design solution may be required, a structural engineer should be consulted.
7 Ideas For Between The Studs Diy Projects
No matter what the size of your home, most of us try to eek every last inch of square footage. "Between the studs" projects are a great way to accomplish just that. By utilizing the hidden space found between the studs in a wall, one can create a bookshelf, a closet, recessed display area - and just about anything else you can dream up that's 16 inches (sometimes 24 inches) wide! Plan ahead and be sure to be aware of the location of pipes, electrical and ductwork before tackling any of these projects.
- Attic bathroom, small bathroom idea from www.homeizea.com.
- Magazine rack at SomewhatSimple.com.
- Recessed display shelf by Tate & Burns Architects found on Houzz.com.
- Broom closet (original source unknown) Pinterest.com.
- Garage garden storage solution by MarthaStewart.com.
- Wall niche creative storage by Better Homes & Gardens.
- Bathroom linens recessed closet (original source unknown) Pinterest.com.