How to Prevent Water Damage to Your Home
The rain in Spain stays mainly on the plane.
A classic lyric from a classic musical.
It's just not true. Gravity applies everywhere, including Spain.
Unless you live on the moon, gravity always forces water to seek the lowest possible point, which is your home's foundation, basement, or crawl space.
Rain, Rain, Go Away!
Did you know that when 1" of rain falls on a 2,000 square foot roof, 1,250 gallons of water pours from the roof? That's a ton of water. Actually, that's five tons of water. Now we claim no special expertise in math, but this is a pretty simple calculation – if the home has four downspouts, there are over 300 gallons of water dumping near the foundation in four different areas.
If an area receives only 4" inches of rain per month, the roof sheds 60,000 gallons of water annually.
At the risk of stating the obvious, it is critical to control water draining from the roof and divert the water away from the foundation walls to prevent water penetration. You must take preventive and, in some cases, corrective measures, to keep water where it belongs – away from your home. Let's focus on two strategies: ground water control and roof water control.
Ground Control to Major Tom: Check Your Grading
Surface water refers to water which is introduced to the soil when it rains. If not properly controlled, surface water may penetrate your home's interior and create damage to the structure, interior surfaces, and homeowner belongings.
Controlling surface water around a home is the most important step to ensuring a proper defense against water penetration. Regrettably, it's almost always the most often overlooked strategy.
- Flowers and mulch - Most homeowners look at their pretty landscaping and pretty flowers and pretty green grass without considering the effects of landscaping on water control. Therefore, when you're landscaping, it's not just important to see the pretty flowers, but also the slope of the ground and any obstacles to water flowing away from the house. Flowers are great. We love flowers. Heck, everyone loves flowers. But flower beds close to the house can damage the home by holding water directly against the foundation walls.
- Landscaping barriers - Installing barriers (retaining walls, landscaping timbers, vertical plastic edging, stones) can exacerbate the problem because barriers don't just hold flowers and mulch - barriers block drainage. If you must cling to your landscape timbers and edging, make sure downspouts extend beyond the barriers. If your home is in cold climes, don't direct downspouts onto the driveway and/or sidewalks; snow and freezing rain can make the walking areas unsafe and help to accelerate cracks in the driveway and/or sidewalk.
The Slope of Things to Come
When we mention grading as a defect in a home inspection, the most common question is "Huh?"
"Grading" is simply a term to help describe surface elevation changes when compared to other areas around or near the house. Proper grading is when the grade or slope of the elevation slopes downward and away from the home at a rate of 1" per foot for the first 6' and then a continued slope for at least 10' from the foundation.
We're more interested in the second most common question: "How do we fix our grading?"
It sounds complicated but it's pretty simple – a proper grade allows water to flow away from the home and foundation; an improper grade allows moisture to flow back towards the home and seep into the soil. With improper grade, rain saturates the soil, pressures the foundation, and eventually forces moisture through the foundation and into the basement or crawlspace.
When you're talking about grade, you may hear our home inspector use the word "swale," a depression in the grading that is sloped to divert water away from the house. A swale normally is used when the surrounding grade is relatively flat and the sloped depression creates a way for water to flow away without changing the overall grading.
Although there are other strategies for keeping water out (drain tiles, damp proofing coatings, sub-slab drainage pump systems), grading is the easiest and most cost effective primary defense against water.
Roof Control - Ups and Downs, Strikes and Gutters
What's the best way to control roof water? Gutters and downspouts are inexpensive and simple ways to keep rain water from dripping down and accumulating around the
foundation and saturating the soil near the foundation. Unfortunately, most homeowners ignore gutters and downspouts, which is why "Missing Downspout Extension" is the sixth most common defect discovered by our inspectors on our Top 10 Issues List.
Gutters must be sloped or pitched to allow water to drain to the downspout area. Too little pitch and there's not enough flow to remove debris in the gutter; too much pitch isn't aesthetically pleasing. Generally speaking, an effective gutter slope is roughly ¼ inch drop for every 10' of gutter. Gutter runs in excess of 30' should have downspouts installed at each end, pitching the gutter from the center towards each downspout.
Over time, gutters sag as attachment points loosen; this phenomenon allows water to stand in the gutter and concentrate debris in low areas, the weight of which makes gutter attachments even looser and creates more sagging until the gutter hangers or spikes fail completely. Therefore, it is important to clean the gutters regularly; check to make sure that hangers are tight to prevent sagging.
Downspouts collect water from gutters and divert water to the ground. Downspouts must terminate at least 3" from foundation walls. Problems occur when downspouts don't direct water properly or where there is blockage directly in front of the downspout. If the turnpiece where the downspout meets the ground (90° or elbow) is missing, the downspout will direct all water straight down the foundation, erode the area and pond water directly against the foundation.
When Water Avoids Even the Best of Prevention Intentions
Even with the best of water prevention intentions, we've all been victims of April showers that seem to last for 40 days and 40 nights and which figure out ways to push water into the basement or crawlspace. Thankfully, most recently constructed homes offer some drainage systems installed on the interior and/or exterior of the home.
What's the first thing you think of when it's raining heavily?
"I hope my sump pump is working." Check your sump pump before the heavy spring and summer rain seasons. Check to make sure that either the vacuum switch or the float triggers the pump and that the ejector line is clear of debris. As with downspouts, sump pump discharge should be away from the foundation, not obstructed and not discharged on sidewalks or driveways.
Unless you live in an area with near zero rain, ground water is almost always present, and water may well up under the slab during times of heavy sustained rainfall even when grading is proper and roof water is controlled. In addition to a sump pump, there are other ways to address ground water, including sub-slab drainage, and directing drainage lines to the exterior.
Controlling ground water in a crawlspace is a similar battle. Add a sump-pump or drainage system and if the crawlspace is dirt, cover the area with a vapor barrier (heavier weight plastic), which helps to prevents moisture from escaping into the crawlspace area. The vapor barrier won't stop ground water from flowing into the crawlspace, but it helps to reduce humidity and acts as a deterrent to keep water vapor and dirt smell out of the crawlspace.
Avoid the Swimming Pool in Your Basement
Although it may be a grand idea to invite the neighborhood kids over to go swimming, you probably didn't imagine setting up the pool in your basement.
The challenge of water control is just like anything else in life – prevention is the best cure. If you properly employ simple and inexpensive water control methods – grading, gutters, and downspouts – you will greatly reduce your risk of long-term damage caused by water.
If you or have any questions about water control or any inspection service, contact us - we're pleased and available to guide and assist you.
The Ace of Spades: Are You Gambling With Your Deck?
What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.
At least until the daily police line-ups are posted to the WWEW (World Wide-Eyed Web).
But how do you know that what happens on your deck will stay on your deck?
Whether we have a passing fancy for an evening of five-card stud or visits to the casino, gambling with the safety of our deck is akin to playing the odds – the house always wins.
We’re not in the business of scare tactics because chances are that your deck is safe, but we’ve all witnessed news reports of critical injuries, and even deaths, which occur every summer after a deck collapses without warning. You’re certainly welcome to search “deck collapse” or “deck accident” to display the regrettable evidence, but trust us – we’ve documented numerous deck accidents waiting to happen. During one recent property inspection, our inspector’s first step onto a second-story deck caused the structure to oscillate left and right, as if it has been constructed upon a house of cards.
Poker Face – Is Your Deck Bluffing?
Decks don’t sound alarms before they’re about to misbehave. But thankfully, decks also aren’t rocket science. Like your home, a deck is constructed upon a foundation. For a typical 10’ x 10’ deck, the foundation effectively is the deck’s framing, comprised of a ledger board, joists, beams and posts. The ledger board is a beam attached to the house upon which joists are connected and extended perpendicularly to other beams parallel to the ledger board, and which rest upon posts. Even if the visible decking material appears to be in perfect condition, you can’t tell if your deck is bluffing until you carefully review the framing for potential deterioration, which could cause instability. The only effective method of checking the deck’s framing is to review the ledger board, joists, beams and posts.
Like your home’s foundation, your deck framing should be level and secure. Check the ledger board to ensure that it remains tight against the house, lag or carriage bolts properly connect the ledger board to the home, and that no deterioration is present. Decks joists should be evenly spaced and deck posts should be level and centered and secure in concrete footings. The International Code Council (www.iccsafe.org), dedicated to developing model codes and standards used in the design, build and compliance process to construct safe, sustainable, affordable and resilient structures, suggests examining the following when inspecting decks, balconies, or porches:
- Loose or missing nails, screws, or anchors where the structure is attached to the building
- Missing, damaged or loose support beams and planking
- Split or rotting wood
In addition, the North American Deck and Railing Association (www.nadra.org) encourages homeowners to examine handrails and guardrails.
We hope it’s obvious but if any structural component isn’t level or is displaced, deteriorated or appears unstable, do not use your deck until it can be inspected and repaired by an industry expert.
Cause of Collapse: Playing An Old (and Rotten) Hand
That deck you installed just a few years back? It isn’t “new” anymore, because a deck is like a person – it degrades over time.
NADRA notes that “older decks require special scrutiny. Many decks were built before code requirements were in place to protect consumers. Some of these decks may have deck-to-house attachments using only nails. Others have become weakened through the years, and the owners don't realize how close to collapse they may be."
Since 1910, the Forest Products Laboratory (www.fpl.fs.fed.us) a national research laboratory of the US Forest Service has provided scientific research on wood, wood products and their commercial uses in partnership with academia, industry, tribal, state, local and other government agencies.
The FPL studied five years of newspaper articles on deck collapses when researching material for a deck-building manual. The FPL’s research indicated that "nearly every collapsed deck had been attached with nails (emphasis added), rather than bolts, and investigators had pinpointed nails as the cause of the collapse." Other common problems with older decks include inadequate number of posts used to support the deck, lack of proper footings upon which the deck posts rest, spacing between joists, and inadequately secured handrails/guardrails. Therefore, if your deck is 25+ years old, odds-makers would bet that there are no lag or carriage bolts securing the deck structure to the home.
Stop playing Russian roulette – if your deck is older and hasn’t been inspected recently, order a Deck Inspection ASAP.
How Many Poker Players Can I Invite to My Party?
Before inviting the 97 neighborhood kids over for a long night of Texas Hold ‘Em and cigars, how do you know how many you can safely scrunch onto your deck? Assuming the deck’s foundation and structure are adequate, does your deck have a weight-breaking threshold?
Yes, and the math is easy, assuming you can calculate the area of an object (cue the maniacal laughing). Seriously, even you can perform some quick math to determine the approximate weight that your deck can safely support – common building practice stipulates that each square foot of decking surface should support a minimum of 40 lbs. Here are some examples:
- If your deck is 1’ x 1’, it will support an obese Chihuahua.
- If your deck is 10’ x 10’, it will handily support about 4,000 lbs., or about 400 obese Chihuahuas.
- If your deck is 100’ x 100’, it will support about 400,000 lbs. or about 39,900 obese Chihauhaus plus one circus elephant replete with two small clowns.
Easy, right? Don’t forget to account for the weight the deck already supports with your tables, chairs, grill, coolers and humidor.
Keeping Maintenance Cards Up Your Sleeve
Our list below represents common inspection issues:
- Improperly secured to the home (only nails, no bolts, very scary)
- Deteriorated posts (cracked, leaning, falling off of footers)
- Improperly secured posts (using only the deck’s weight to keep posts in place, no bolts or nails securing the post to the frame)
- Missing joist hangers or missing nails for joist hangers
- Deteriorated decking boards (cupping, cracked, rotted, decayed)
- Over-spanned joists (joists extended too far without proper support/beams)
- Deck structure separating from house
Stacking the Deck – How to Prolong the Life of Your Deck
Assuming your deck is structurally sound, there are numerous methods to prolong its life, as well as ensuring that it is aesthetically pleasing (i.e., lookin’ pretty).
- Powerball...Doh! We Mean Power Wash. Clean deck = good deck. Whether wood or composite, power wash and clean your deck annually; cleaning can not only make your deck look (almost) new, it helps to prevent growth of algae and mold.
- Stain = Name of the Game. Staining your wood deck helps to minimize weathering of the decking boards. When wood wears and weathers it dries out, which can cause the wood to crack…creating splinters that hurt your dainty feet.
- Nails = Pops. Exposure to the elements could cause nails and screws to protrude from the surface…creating safety hazards that hurt your dainty feet. Replacing nails and screws as they “pop” will help to secure boards and minimize injuries.
- Clear the Deck! During winter months in northern climes when you’re not using your deck as frequently, move planters, chairs, tables, and anything else from your deck to avoid discoloration of the decking.
- Shape the Landscape. Trim nearby bushes and trees, which need to be at least 12” from the deck to prevent mold growth, moss, and rotting
The Turn of a Friendly Card
Decks are perfect for sunning and parties and fun. But only if they’re structurally sound and well-maintained.
Check your deck frequently for structural issues, keep eyes wide open for common issues, and stay up to date with general maintenance.
Pools - Hot/Cold, Love/Hate Relationship
Question: Are you a heliophile? Read on and decide for yourself!
Pools are great, aren’t they?
Lounging lazily, watching the puppy-dog clouds drifting overhead, lollygagging in the shallows, chatting with friends and family on a dreamy summer afternoon, skinny-dipping at midnight under the stars (preferably not under your neighbor’s window).
Pools are terrible, aren’t they?
Futzing around with flesh-eating chemicals, picking out decomposed frog parts, incessant brushing and cleaning, playing free baby-sitter to the neighborhood kids. All 97 of them. While screaming, “Hey, I don’t swim in your toilet, can you stop peeing in my pool?”
Pools are like relationships: complicated.
But a pool also is just like any other property investment: Maintain = Enjoy vs. Neglect = Regret.
Why It Matters: How Many Pools?
Pools is a big market (is that proper English?). According to the Association of Pool and Spa Professionals (APSP), there are over 9 million pools, with 350,000 coming on line every year. California, Florida, Texas and Arizona comprise the top four states for swimming pools. Bet you can’t guess the next six states: New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Illinois, Massachusetts, and Virginia.
The Triple Lindy of Maintenance: Chemicals, Cleaning and Pump
Pool maintenance really isn’t a drag, it just requires commitment.
- Chemicals – A common misconception is that “too much chlorine” causes stinging red eyes. Not true – the real cause of red eye is improper pH, a measure of the water’s balance of acid and alkali. If the water is too acidic, it will burn your eyes and it will corrode metal equipment; if the water is too alkali-ly, it will be murky and allow algae to form. Thankfully, chemical maintenance is an established science, not an art. After the season’s grand opening, maintenance generally requires a weekly pH strip test and the addition of any number of ready-made, packaged chemicals to adjust pH.
- Cleaning – Most pools have systems to remove everyday debris (decomposed frogs, dirt, insects, tree debris, etc.) that gets into the pool water. The skimmer functions as a surface level cleaner; the vacuum removes non-floating debris at the bottom of the pool. Normal maintenance involves disposing of debris from the skimmer basket and vacuuming the bottom of the pool. Many pools are equipped with automatic vacuums that run on timer systems, and some pools have built-in jet systems which rotate in sequence and “push” debris to the main drain at the bottom of the pool.
- Pump – The pump provides the circulation necessary for the operation of the skimmer and vacuum. The pump circulates water in the pool and minimizes algae. A well-maintained pump should last 10+ years. Pump filters collects dirt and debris and should be cleaned per manufacturer recommendations.
And Now For Something Completely Serious: Safety
Most inspection issues we identify relate to safety. We don’t want to be buzzkill, but the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) provides these startling statistics: "From 2005-2009, there were an average of 3,533 fatal drownings – about 10 deaths per day. One in five people who die from drowning are children 14 and younger. For every child who dies from drowning, another five receive emergency department care for non-fatal submersion injuries."
Yes, pools can be fun but only if they’re safe. We generally focus on two important safety considerations: access restrictions and supervision.
- Access – Restricting access is an effective method to prevent drowning. The CDC recommends installing a four-sided fence which separates the pool area from the rest of the property; fences should be a minimum of four feet high and employ self-closing and self-latching mechanisms. Other helpful measures include installing door locks which prevent a child from accessing the pool by herself, or alarms which activate if someone enters the pool area.
- Supervision – One of the most effective ways to prevent drowning among children is simple – never leave a child alone near or in a pool. And don’t trust the “safety in numbers” myth – children can’t be relied upon to look after each other. Safety shouldn’t stop with the kids – an adult should exercise extreme caution if she risks swimming alone for exercise or pleasure. A good rule of thumb is to never swim alone. And last but not least, we hope it’s obvious that pools and alcohol don’t mix well – or at all.
Our Swimming Pool Inspection
We’ve conducted tens of thousands of pool inspections across the fruited plains and our data indicates that there are three main categories of pool-related inspection issues: structural, safety, and equipment.
- Structural Issues – Pool owners dread the phrase “structural issues” when they’re reviewing inspection results and recommended mitigation. But even if a pool is well maintained, surface cracks or deterioration may appear as a pool begins to age; cracks indicate that the pool could be leaking or in danger of developing a leak and further investigation is required. We also inspect the pool deck for evidence of cracking, heaving, or sloping because this type of damage can not only cause people to trip and fall, but problems with the pool deck could be caused by settlement problems in the area directly surrounding the pool, which may also reveal a leak in the pool or piping.
Fixing a hole where the rain came in... - Safety Issues – We inspect all issues related to safety, focusing specifically on potential safety breaches. Although code generally requires fencing, we occasionally inspect properties in which the pool isn’t properly fenced and even more frequently, cases in which the gate and/or latch don’t work properly. Fences must be at least 4’ high with properly functioning self-closing and/or self-latching mechanisms.
- Equipment Issues – The pump is the heart of a pool’s system and, therefore, must be checked regularly to ensure that it is functioning properly. Pump issues are evident by poor water circulation or floating flotsam and jetsam. Most issues related to pumps include leaking and corrosion, as well as the chance that the pump's lines may contain air. The pool filter must be checked regularly (monthly); if the filter captures too much debris and the system’s pressure creeps up without mitigation, the pump’s life could be shortened because of the extra work required to circulate the water through dirty filters. The pump, skimmer/vacuum, and filter must all remain in good working condition if you want your pool to stay "happy and healthy."
Schedule a US Inspect Swimming Pool Inspection today or bundle it with your next home inspection.
And Now Back To Summertime Fun!
Owning and maintaining a pool can be a mixed bag, but it’s hard to argue with 9+ million homeowners – pools are definitely worth whatever trouble they’re perceived to cause. The happiest pool owners understand that the keys to happy pool ownership are regular maintenance and proper safety measures.
Pool equipment? Check! Pool chemicals? Check! Pool safety? Check!
Well, are you a heliophile? Yes, if you’re attracted to sunlight or have the desire to stay in the sun!
Then go ahead, put on your itsy bitsy, teenie weenie, yellow polkadot bikini, embrace the heliophilic life and jump on in!
Termites - Your Quiet Natural Disaster
Imagine.
A bright, warm spring morning after a drenching rain shower. You’re perusing the morning paper on your iPad, sipping a cup of coffee, when, out of the corner of your eye, you notice a small insect land lazily on the nearby window sill.
Where did that bug come from? Wait a second, that bug has lots of friends!
Termites are Your Quiet Natural Disaster
Termites are just bugs, right?
Wrong.
This may sound crazy, but termites cause more damage to homes in the US than tornadoes, fires and earthquakes combined.
The National Pest Management Association (NPMA) estimates that termites cause $5 billion in property damage annually.
Because termites are hungry 24x7, damage to wood near and within wood structures can occur in the blink of an eye. An average-sized termite colony can consume 1 foot of a length of 2x4 in just six months.
WDIs, WDOs, and Other Worrisome Woes
The majority of termite inspections performed as part of a real estate transaction are based on the nationally recognized guidelines of the NPMA. However, the scope of inspections can vary based on individual state requirements; in such cases, inspections are conducted according to the specific requirements of a state’s Pest Control Board. There are 14 states that consider more than just wood-destroying insects.Pest Control Boards in such states also expect inspectors to be on the lookout for Wood-Destroying Organisms (WDO) or fungus.
How to Minimize the Risk of a Termite Infestation
There are many steps homeowners can take to help to prevent termites from infesting their properties.
- Minimize Moisture - Termites love moisture. Therefore, reduce or eliminate moisture in and around the property, including diverting water away from the home’s foundation by installing properly functioning downspouts, gutters and splash blocks.
- Minimize Moisture – Say what? Seriously, we know we’re being repetitive but if you have a crawl space, make sure it’s properly vented to reduce humidity.
- Trim Everything – Trim vines, hedges, and other vegetation to prevent blockage of exhaust vents.
- Keep the Structure Clear – Remove old form boards, grade stakes, tree trunks and roots near a structure, as these could attract termites and draw them closer to the home.
- Mind the Gap – Maintain at least an 6” gap between soil and any wood portions of the home.
- Remain Vigilant – We know you're busy, who's not? Drop the Netflix for five minutes and go outside to inspect the foundation for signs of termite damage or infestation.
Who Needs a Termite Inspection?
Governmental authorities are increasingly concerned about protecting consumers who are purchasing homes and have been leaning toward more stringent inspection requirements.
In addition, lending institutions are becoming more cautious with regards to clean “bills of health” with respect to termites. To satisfy lender concerns, homeowners often need to provide a clearance letter to the bank or mortgage company with confirmation that there are no visual signs of termites, and that there are minimal conditions conducive to termite infestation.
When the inspector finds evidence of a subterranean termite infestation, the inspector should recommend treatment even if there’s no sign of active infestation in the structure because termites are persistent and, once a property has been infested, there is a higher likelihood of a re-infestation.
What Actions Should You Take?
Termites can’t be effectively treated by a homeowner.
We recommend that all homes which are part of a real estate transaction have a comprehensive termite inspection performed by a qualified professional because it is the best way to ensure that a possible infestation is discovered, treated and documented for proper disclosure to interested parties.
Trained and licensed pest control professionals assess each infestation individually and are trained to recommend the most effective treatment plan. The type of treatment depends, of course, on the severity of the infestation, the species of termite, and the location and construction of the home.
“Do It Yourself” treatments may be able to address some live insects; however, such treatments are akin to using a Band-Aid when a tourniquet is required. DIY treatments will not eliminate the entire infestation or the source of the infestation. Only pest control professionals have the training, expertise, and technologies to completely eliminate a termite infestation.
Save Yourself from Disaster
We love asking pest control professionals to help fix a bug problem.
But we're not super excited about asking a pest control professional to inspect for termites. We just think there may be a conflict of interest.
Schedule a US Inspect Termite Inspection today or bundle it with your next home inspection. We're experienced. We're licensed, as required. And best of all, we're unbiased - we won't try to sell you a termite treatment or monthly pest control service.
Mold Remediation: All’s Well if All Ends Well
Alas, poor Yorick, he tested positive for mold. Well, not Yorick, but his abode. Yorick's home has mold, lots of mold, elevated levels of mold.
In this post, we review mold remediation, which is just a fancy way of saying “fixing the mold problem.”
And what, pray tell does nutella have to do with all of this? See our previous post about challenges of mold and how best to conduct a mold inspection.
And Nothing is, But What is Not – How to Remove Mold
So we discover that mold is alive and kicking and spreading like sporefire. What are the next steps? Whom should we call? What should we expect? Will the sun rise tomorrow? (OK, that was mildly overdramatic.)
Mold remediation procedures typically involve the following:
- Identify areas of visible and high airborne concentrations of mold and contributing sources of moisture.
- Eliminate all material moisture sources.
- Isolate contaminated areas; this entails sealing the area with a physical barrier (plastic sheeting) and creating a negative air environment with the use of forced air filtration.
- Remove contaminated materials – bag, seal, and discard; this includes affected drywall, carpet, insulation, and structural materials.
- Treatment – Manual agitation with HEPA vacuuming, soda blasting or dry ice blasting.
- Test – After remediation is completed, conduct post-remediation (clearance) testing is conducted to determine if the clean-up effort was successful; in fact, post remediation testing must be conducted prior to installation of the new finish materials.
Much Ado About Mold – Common Problems with Mold Results
As you may imagine, remediating a mold problem can be a daunting process, but understanding what to expect can help to navigate this difficult issue with minimal hassle and expense. Some common problems we find that obstruct successful mold remediation include:
- Disputed test results
- Unqualified contractors
- Incomplete scope of work
- Failure to address the sources of moisture that led to the mold problem
- Insufficient post-remediation air filtration (scrubbing) to ensure all airborne spores are removed after clean-up work is completed; failure to perform this important step often leads to failed clearance tests, wasted time and additional costs
Repent What Is Past, Avoid What Is To Come – How to Minimize Common Problems
Thankfully, avoiding common problems is straightforward for those of us with wisdom and experience. We recommend the following guidelines with regards to minimizing common problems related to mold remediation:
Address moisture, then fix the mold – Not much point in fixing mold if the source issue isn't fixed. Our Mold Assessment, which includes infrared scans, should provide everything you need to confidently address moisture issues. Always make sure that all moisture sources that have contributed to the mold contamination are identified and addressed before actual mold remediation begins. Sources of water penetration include roofing leaks, foundation leaks, flashing leaks, window leaks, plumbing leaks, negative grading, missing gutters/downspouts, and ventilation problems. If you don't fix the moisture penetration, mold likely will develop again, leading to another cleanup.
See the downspout extender in the grading photo? Uphill gravity apparently breaks all of the laws of physics!
Engage Qualified Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) specialists – Just like any other discipline, quality of results are correlated to quality of human resource. Therefore, select a professional, qualified contractor who ensures that proper containment procedures are followed to protect the occupants’ health, proper documentation of proposed and completed work is provided to satisfy disclosure to prospective buyers, and warranty coverage is obtained in the event remediation fails to pass post-remediation clearance testing
Leverage multiple suppliers – Simple rule of thumb is to obtain at least two bids from experienced, qualified IAQ specialists and validate references.
Match scope with identified issues – Always ensure that the scope of work proposed by the contractor properly addresses all areas of concern identified in the mold assessment report.
What you can’t see can still hurt you – After all mold removal procedures are completed, proper air filtration, or air scrubbing, must be conducted by the remediation contractor; this ensures that airborne mold spores released during the remediation process are removed prior the completion of post-remediation clearance testing.
From this Day to the Ending of the World, be Resolved to Clearance Testing
Clearance testing is performed to determine if the remediation process has been successful. If remediation has been properly conducted, there should be no visible mold evident anywhere in the interior of the building and to that, we shout “Bravo!” Successful remediation should result in mold levels that are equal to or lower than those found at the exterior of the property.
And poor Yorick? You don’t really need to worry about him after all because he turned out to be quite fine.
Mold: There's Something Rotten in the State of my Basement
You’ve been there, right? Open the pantry, untie the bread bag, drop a slice on the counter, slather liberally with Nutella, commence to munch, and then...upon closer observation...realize that the treasured white slice has various shades of green and gray! Suppressing the urge to vomit, you wonder what fatal fungi you just consumed.
(OK, that’s not really the mold to which we refer, but we like visceral imagery and we adore Nutella, so we use both when possible.)
The mold to which we are referring is the creepy stuff that lurks and grows and generally hangs out in basements and other wet places. Mold is a plant-like growth that manifests on damp or decaying organic matter or on living organisms by any of a number of fungi.
Old Mold, Good Mold, Bad Mold
Mold is old. It's been part of nature’s fabric since the beginning of creation and primarily exists to break down organic matter in our environment.
Good mold - hooray! Some mold species are beneficial and give us products such as yummy cheese, delicious wine, and life-saving medications.
Bad mold - boo, hiss! Sadly, other molds can be harmful, especially when concentrated in a building’s enclosed environment.
Unwanted molds in property are generally referred to as allergenic molds, which thrive on warm, wet conditions commonly caused by water intrusion into your home and exacerbated by poor ventilation. Some common allergenic molds which reside and thrive indoors sound like they’ve been derived from Greek mythology: Cladosporium, Penicillium, Alternaria, Aspergillus, Stachybotrys.
Mold By Any Other Name Would Be Just as Sweet (or Not)
Like any plant, mold will thrive if it has three inputs: food, moisture, and warm temperatures.
Food? You may not enjoy eating wallpaper, but mold loves wallpaper. In fact, your entire house is pretty much food for mold, which consumes any organic material (wood, walls, floors, paper).
Moisture? It's everywhere in your house, whether you can see it or (most often) not. Sources of water penetration include roofing leaks, foundation leaks, elevated humidity, flashing leaks, window leaks, plumbing leaks, and ventilation problems.
When proper conditions are present, mold will grow and spread very quickly.
But the mold plant itself isn’t the real issue. The problem occurs when the mold plant releases spores, which carry what are known as mycotoxins. Spores are the dormant reproductive agents released by molds. Spores are everywhere and are dormant only until proper conditions have been established to encourage new growth.
Unfortunately, spores generally make contact with a building’s occupants – you.
Mycotoxins can be ingested via nose, mouth, eyes, and even via skin pores.
Whereto Our Health Is Bound, We Are Not Ourselves
Too much bad mold in the basement is bad. Too much bad mold in the walls is bad. Too much bad mold in the air? Oh my, very bad.
Common health problems associated with molds include respiratory and gastrointestinal infections, skin rashes, muscle pain, memory loss; in some extreme cases, the effects of mold may result in death.
Negative health effects depend on the type of mold, level of exposure, and susceptibility of the occupant, which varies from person to person. The most susceptible individuals are children, elderly and people with compromised immune systems.
When to Test for Infernal Mold
Most homeowners test for mold when they smell an unusual odor, see discolored spots, or become sick for no apparent reason. Because mold growth often is caused or accelerated by moisture, many people test for mold after a significant water-related property issue, e.g., heavy rains cause water penetration in the basement, dishwasher floods the kitchen, washing machine floods the laundry room, etc.
How to Test for Infernal Mold
Mold testing, combined with infrared scans and visual inspection methods, is the best non-invasive method to assess the extent and types of mold in your home.
Our Mold Assessment provides you with specific guidance for addressing potential mold-related issues in your home. Our assessment includes interior/exterior inspection of the home for mold and conditions conducive for growth, interior infrared scans, air sampling for airborne spore levels, and laboratory testing. Our comprehensive report includes laboratory data and analysis on the types and quantity of mold spores in your home.
Testing before remediation helps to establish baseline conditions and the scope of any possible remediation; testing after remediation ensures that spore levels have been lowered sufficiently.
Speaking of remediation, see Mold Remediation: All's Well if All Ends Well.
What are those Black Flakes in my Whirlpool Tub?
Question
What are those black flakes in my whirlpool tub?
Answer
Hold your stomach...
The black flakes are mold and mildew, bacteria from human skin, oils, soaps, and other junk (use your imagination) that have been allowed to spawn in residual water left behind within the piping from the last time the unit was used.
Whirlpool tubs don't drain completely after use; water remains in the lines, which permits bacteria to hatch and grow. It's very common to have water in the tub immediately fill up with black and brown flakes.
Prevention is the Best Medicine
- Clean your whirlpool before or after each use. (We know you're not going to do that, proceed directly to the next line).
- Clean your whirlpool every month. (We know most of you aren't going to do that, proceed directly to the next line).
- Clean your whirlpool when the black flakes reach a point at which you begin to gag.
Cleaning Your Whirlpool
There are lots of different cleaning materials, including solutions developed specifically for jetted tubs - we recommend following the manufacturer's directions.
You can also try the following process:
- Fill up the tub with HOT water at least 2" above highest jet
- Add 1/2 gallon of distilled white vinegar
- Run the jets for 15 minutes
- Read a book for 10 minutes (we know you're not going to do that, go check your Facebook page instead)
- Drain the tub and refill with COLD water
- Run the jets for 10 minutes
- Drain the tub and wipe it down with clean, soft cloth
Check Lowe's or Home Depot for a whirlpool jet cleaner; you can find the cleaner in the bathtub section. Or consider a professional cleaning periodically.
Now, go soak in the tub and relax with confidence!